Chrysler Turbo Database

Welcome to the definitive Chrysler 2.2, 2.5 Turbo I/II upgrade database.

Please, if you have anything you wish to add to this database e-mail me! This page is for those looking to upgrade their Chrysler Turbo automobile.

A big thanks to these people that contributed to this database! Blaine Jansen, Angelo Taylor, Dempsey Bowling, Doug Mill, Garry W. McKissick, Jr., Gus Mahon, Cliff Sebring, Robert Meier, and Cliff Ramsdell.

Mopars that came with turbo intercooled 2.2 motors for U.S. market; 86 GLHS Omni 87 GLHS Charger 87 Shelby Lancer 87-90 Daytona Shelby Z 87 CSX 88 CSX-T WAS NON-INTERCOOLED (10 Shelby intercooler kits were sold for this car however) 88-89 Lancer Shelby 89 CSX-VNT 89-90 Lebaron GTC Coupe 91-92 Spirit R/T (16V) 92-93 Daytona R/T (16V)

Exhaust System

Parts Identification Exhaust Manifolds 84-87 Turbo I 88-93 Turbo I 87-90 Turbo II/VNT

The factory exhaust manifold is adequate for stock applications. It is fairly restrictive and Forward Motion sells a ported one that flows 28% better than a stocker. Mopar Performance had a header planed and even announced that one would be for sale but the product was pulled due to the fact the turbos were falling off the engines! Price was in the $400 range and was only good for 4-5 hp. Forward Motion and others are working on header designs but nothing practical for street use has been produced. Quality of flow is just as important as quantity! The ported exhaust manifold combined with a large exhaust system provides the largest gains to be had in a Chrysler Turbo car. A minimum of a 2.5" system should be used, a 3" mandrel bent is preferred. Last season we started on the journey to faster et's in a buddy's '87 Shelby Z. A full 3" exhaust w/ no cat & Dynomax race magnum muffler netted quite a large noticeable gain over the 2.5" catless Dynomax Super Turbo equipped exhaust. Muffler design is very important in a turbo charged application. you need a muffler with the least amount of backpressure.

Straight through designs are best.

flowmaster or 'path' mufflers should be avoided. If your area permits, remove the cat. Nice gain there. A word on thermal wraps. On my turbo cars we had wrapped the exhaust manifold and turbo. Now Thermo-Tec notes this is a bad thing and they are correct. It results with a warped, cracked exhaust manifold that flexes so much it snapped the #1 exhaust stud right out of the head. and a barbecued turbocharger. proceed at your own risk!

Intake

Parts Identification intake manifolds 84-87 turbo I 'log' manifold 86-87 2 piece turbo II 88-93 1 piece turbo I/II

According to airflow studies by LRE the 84-87 'log' manifold is very restrictive. After 12 psi boost starts backing up in the intake manifold. This I can believe, my buddy intercooled his 85 600 by cutting the 90 degree elbow of his and welding a straight section to his intake. using this redirected intake he was able to hook up an intercooler. Yet with a higher boost reading then my car (with no intercooler), both cars ran damn near identical times. The 2 piece and 1 piece intakes flow the same, (as per LRE airflow studies) I prefer the 1 piece myself, its a tad easier to work around and I had a 2.2 that was making 306hp with one. Seems to flow well enough for me. One trick for a few extra (4-7) hp is a larger throttle body. LRE and Forward motion have oversize ones for the 84-87 intakes. (46mm vs 42mm) A 52mm throttle body is a bolt on for the 87 and up TIIs from some 87-88 3.0 V6 engines and 3.3 V6s (vs the stock TII 46mm). Just have to swap over the throttle bracket and cable arm and port the intake mouth out to match the throttle body. Also, when the switch was made to the larger throttle body from the mitsu V6, fuel economy was observed to drop noticeably, without any noticeable gains in power.

Camshaft

1984-1987 Turbo I/II	PN: 4293819	.430 Lift	240-240 Duration
1988 Turbo I/II	PN: 4387850	.430 Lift	236-232 Duration
1989-1992 Turbo I/II	PN: 4387721	.430 Lift	228-228 Duration
Forward Motion 475	FM09034	.460 Lift	Unknown
CompCam / Super 60	#22-124-4	.499 Lift	268-268 Duration

The best factory cam would be the 84-87 2.2 Turbo I/II camshaft. It has the most lift and duration of all the turbo cams. You can run the later roller cams if you wish; they do have a little smoother idle and make less noise but you will lose some duration and overlap. It's a drop in; just use the roller followers and it will work in any 2.2/2.5 engine.

Aftermarket Cams. There are two aftermarket cams for the 2.2 turbo; The Super 60/Competition cams (CL22-124-4) is an excellent cam for making hp between 3000-6000 rpm. It is good for at least 10hp on a bone stocker and on a modified engine is worth 20-35hp. specs: .499 lift, 260 duration. Its drawbacks however are failure in emissions testing, low rpm operations with a heavy car, and very short life (10-18,000 miles). several fixes are being tried to rectify this with no luck so far... Competition Cams is aware of the problem and is doing nothing about it... The DC cam finally died so I put in a S60 cam.....the car did not like it AT ALL.. ..it would now spark knock at only 9-10 psi of boost no matter what I did... (Angelo Taylor's Turbo I powered L body) ...my recommendations are: Do not run a S60 cam in a T1 car.....use the FM 475...

Forward Motion has an Inforcer cam with .475 lift. I used it as an opportunity to upgrade to FM's Enforcer 1 camshaft. It noticeably improved mid-range power, and also seemed to stretch out the top-end a little too. FM's 475 cam produces 14-16 inHg vacuum at a very smooth idle. Mike Marra notes; However, with about 20,000 miles on it, MP sintered iron rocker arms, and MP valvesprings, it shows almost no wear. I give this cam much of the credit for my 13 sec TI. I received an e-mail from a Shelby Dodge owner who is running two .475 cams. It seems one of the cams is fine, the other has "gone away" The good one uses stock springs, the other, HD springs from Forward Motion. Stock springs seem to be the way to go then if you aren't running into valve float with the .475 cam.

PN: P4349650 Cam keys are a good way to adjust your cam timing. Shelby retarded the camshaft 4 degrees in the carburated Shelby Chargers to make more high rpm hp. I prefer cam keys to "slip-slide" cam sprockets because of cost and its easier to duplicate results with the cam keys. Multi keyway sprockets are also sold but you have no way of telling where top dead center is! They forgot to mark TDC on the sprocket.

Heads

Parts Identification Cylinder heads 83-85 "G" 86-93 "782" 87-91 Crossdrilled

The best flowing head is the 83-85 "G" casting head. It flows 10% more air than the 86-92 "782" head which makes about 10% more torque. The "G" head would be a good choice for a light car, while the "782" or fast burn head will be better for a heavier vehicle. All turbo heads have heavier valve springs and better exhaust valves. Porting and polishing of cylinder heads is best done by a professional. Unless you have lots of practice and have done several, it's very easy to damage a head and make it unusable. Mopar Performance has two heads in their catalog: a mild ported head with 1 mm oversize valves and a more extensively ported head with much larger valves. I will try to get some hp numbers to see how much gain is acquired installing one of these units. LRE and Forward Motion also have ported heads for sale. ....these cars like efficiency of flow, not mass of flow on the heads... The best headgasket to use with a 2.2 is the factory gasket or the MP one. Do not use the felpro gasket under any circumstance!! I have seen them fail in 3000 miles! Use Mopar headbolts! Stay away from FelPro or Napa.

The Short Block

Parts Identification Cylinder Blocks 84-87 Turbo I 87-88 Turbo II 89-91 Turbo II Commonblock

The 89 CSX is the only Shelby Dodge with Turbo II internals. All other SD are Turbo I to Turbo II conversions. (Note Shelby Daytona and Lancer Shelby are factory TII cars) Legit TII have the best engine internals, In some cases overkill. Forged crank, hd rods, mahl pistons with floating pins, crossdrilled block and heads for better cooling. The best rods to use are the Tii ones or the 81-85 2.2 rod (carb or turbo). Same rod except no bushing for a floating pin. 86-93 2.2 rods are 30 grams lighter than the above rods and should be replaced at the first opportunity! All 2.5 Turbos use TII rods. Cranks forged vs cast; forged is stronger but weighs 7 pounds more than cast crank. Never seen crank failure either way. If you are using Mahl pistons you need to use a rod with a floating pin setup- be warned, the clips have been known to come out and score the cylinder wall. LRE has steel spring units that are safer. I use TRW/sealed power pistons with good luck. The best pistons to buy for a very high output engine are JE forged pistons. On oil pressure, experts recommend 7 to 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1000 rpm of engine usage. 7 psi + 6000 rpm = 42 psi 10 psi + 6000 rpm = 60 psi Also make sure you're using Mobil One oil- a synthetic motor oil will make more hp than a regular oil (frictional gains). I used to drag race motorcycles. Ran a 73 Z-1 900 with velocity stacks, open header, extra weight removed, rejetted carbs, sprocket change, and race fuel. My average e.t. for the quarter was 10.8 with Castrol 10w30. If I used Mobil 1 10w30, I consistently averaged about 10.65. This stuff is slick. Robert Meier Speaking of oil, a good baffled oil pan can help keep the oil in the pan where it belongs. Without one, the crank whips the oil up and costs hp. On a 440 Mopar V8 this is good for 15hp at 6000 rpm!

Costs range from $160 to $400 for a good oil pan. 2.5 liter owners can remove the balance shafts in the oil pan and pickup 10-14 hp for free- they are for secondary order vibrations and not needed. I have done several turbo and non-turbo cars with no ill effects. 88-95 2.5 Dakotas don't even come with them, no room in the oil pan. Just drop the oil pan, remove the 6 bolts holding the balance shafts in, cut the chain attached to the front of the crankshaft and remove it. Plug the oil feed hole, which is located next to the number 1 main cap, with a pipe plug (you will have to tap out the hole), reinstall the oil pan and your done. Another bonus is less engine noise and a pan that holds another quart of oil. ...note that the oil pump hole is oval while the one at the surface of the block that it mates to is round... ..take a die grinder and make the one on the block match the one on the pump... ...Ed Peters swears there is a 4 hp gain since pump does not sap as much power due to better oil flow.....I tried it on my carb Horizon and MAYBE picked up .10... ...not really worth the effort... Unless of course you have the motor apart and have a garage... every little bit helps..

Fuel System: Port Fuel Injection Their isn't many options for Mopar owners in this area, stock, MP , ND Performance or full aftermarket (DFI, Electromotive, etc.). Low 12's have been run with stock electronics, but its up to you to fool the computer into working correctly. There will be problems with larger injectors, and a separate boost controller must be installed. The Mopar Performance units are a nice mild upgrade but on some you lose cruise control and others oxygen feedback at idle stops working. There is also no warranty- if its dead out of the box, you are out of luck. Neil Emiro at ND Performance can program anything you want into a computer but their may be some trial and error required to get the programing to your satisfaction due to engine differences. (505) 458-6024 Full aftermarket is the most expensive and the most powerful. Custom sensor and brackets will have to fabricated, but you will have the most flexibility of tuning.

Injectors

Part Number Application Static Flow
4418474/5	Stock Turbo I	27 lbs/hr at 55psi.
P4452803	Mopar Performance	30 lbs/hr at 55psi.
4418258	Stock Turbo II (89 vintage)	32 lbs/hr at 55psi.
P4452804	Mopar Performance	34 lbs/hr at 55psi.
P4529495	Mopar Performance +20%	42 lbs/hr at 55psi.
P5249452	Mopar Performance Super 60	52 lbs/hr at 55psi.
4418213	2.5L (Low Resistance)	34.85 lb/hr at 55psi.
5277895	2.5L (Low Resistance)	34.85 lb/hr at 55psi.
4532586	2.5L Plus (+40%)	52.98 lb/hr at 55psi.

Much thanks to Garry W. McKissick, Jr. for this information.

Injector application chart

Stamping Application Manufacture
4275312	84 Turbo I, good part number.	Bosch

4306024	85-86 Turbo I, supersedes to 4418255, then to 4418474	Bosch

Unknown	MP: 4452803 Turbo I +	Deka?

4306018	87 Shelby Z Turbo II; supersedes to 4418258, then to 5277895	Bosch

4418335	Unknown on 89-93 fuel rail, not a good part number	Bosch

4418258	89 Turbo II / 89 2.5 Turbo I, supersedes to 5277895	Bosch

4418213	91 16V / 89 Turbo II, supersedes to 5277895	Deka
4504322	Unknown-Turbo II?, supersedes to 5277895	Unknown

5277895	MP: P4452804 (4 pack) current 2.5 TI/TII/TIII/TIV injector	Deka

P4532170	MP: P4529495 (4 pack) +20%	Deka
4532586?	MP: P5249452 (4 pack) +40% Super 60	Deka?

5th injectors and map sensor fooling

Fault code charts for Turbo I/II 1984-1988 Turbo fault codes Vacuum Diagrams for Turbo engines 84 Turbo 85-86-87 Turbo 87 Turbo II 88 Turbo I 88 Turbo II 89 Turbo I 89 Turbo II 90 Turbo I 90 VNT 91 Turbo I 91 16-V 92 16-V 93 16-V

Ignition Stock spark plugs work excellent; RN12YC or for a colder plug, RN9YC. .35 to .40 gap works just fine, do not go over .40 ...I NEVER had luck with Splitfires or Bosch Platinums......nothing wrong with stock Champions. The stock ignition coil works great as does the stock (mopar) spark plug wires. If you must use aftermarket plug wires get Magnacore wires or make a set from Moroso spiral core. Do NOT use solid core wires! modern computers do not tolerate the electronic noise they generate!

Turbochargers

Parts Identification 84-87 Turbo I 88-93 Turbo I 87-89 Turbo II 89-90 VNT 91-93 16V

Blow off valves

Boost controllers

Intercooling What exactly does intercooling do? Mostly, just what the name implies. Adding an intercooler will greatly reduce the intake temperature, a 70-200°F drop in air temperature (dependent upon application) results in a more dense, powerful fuel/air charge, greatly reduces exposure to detonation, and virtually eliminates the power fade felt in back-to-back runs and extended pulls without intercooling. This reduction in temperature will allow higher boost levels to be run safely without fear of knock. Garry W. McKissick, Jr.

Using alcohol as a intercooler/fuel By Mike Marra. chemical intercooling

Intercooler parts Identification

This is the infamous Super 60 intercooler (PN: P5249331) DO NOT BUY IT! For street use it is a very poor choice, as you can read yourself right from Mopar Performance's own 2.2 book! Pn: P4452792, page 343. I asked a Chrysler engineer at a meeting when did this intercooler start working better than the stock one and was told "at speeds over 60mph" to which I replied "but the race is just about over by then". This intercooler was designed for a car pacing Indy at 100 plus mph. 15 fins per inch vs 22 for the stocker. It is money very poorly spent if you purchase it, the only advantage over a stocker it has is less pressure on the turbo compressor under boost. poor trade off in my book.

Factory intercooler/radiator 87-89 Daytona, Shelby Lancer, Lebaron GTC.

Old Turbo I intercooler kit from mopar performance. P4349618 It worked fairly well.

Tips and Tricks

Get a cyberdyne air/fuel gauge, it makes tuning a snap! part number 7009 - it's about $30 from summit racing.. Weight is bad -100 lbs is equal to 10 hp or 1/10 sec in the quarter mile. So you can lose weight or make more power- it's easier to lose weight and parts last longer. Some examples: get a lighter battery (10 lbs), light weight seats (40-90 lbs), lightweight wheels; empty your trunk-you would be suprised how much weight is lurking in there; holesaw the bumpers behind the covers where it can't be seen; pitch the a/c compressor. Hell, if you're desperate scrape the undercoating off the car. Now, if you managed to pull 200 lbs from your car you just gained 20hp. Simple isn't it?

Drop in a 185 degree thermostat for more power, cooler running and better detonation resistance. Do not install a 160 thermostat- excessive wear of the rings will result.

For those of you considering a RWD conversion... Mopar Performance used to have a 2.2/2.5 bellhousing kit in the catalog. It was just stock Dakota parts that were bundled in a package.

Spending Money Well, you can get an underdrive pulley which is good for 10-11hp for $75. K&N air cleaners are mandatory equipment. they are cheap and good for a 1-2% horsepower increase.

you may never have to replace an air filter again. Another good choice would be a nitrous oxide kit, 50 hp at the touch of a button. Only problem is when the bottle runs out; but 50hp of juice lasts a long time. PN: 05208 2.2/2.5L Mopar Turbo nitrous kit

714-546-0592

Case Histories Doug Mill '85 GLH Turbo (Turbo I) - aka "The Fly-N-Box" (12.99@105+) Tom 'Gus' Mahon '85 GLH Turbo I (14.36@98.94) '89 Dodge Caravan TII (13.18@102.57) '91 Plymouth Acclaim TII (12.25@108) Gary Donovan '89 Shelby Daytona TII (13.64@101) '86 Turbo Z Daytona TI/II (13.34@108) Garry W. McKissick, Jr's 1986 Shelby Charger "Sleeper" TI/TII (12.85@108.70)

Thanks for stopping in!